| Memories have a sleek habit of creating unexpected best moments out of the smallest details... Years ago, recently moved-over, my mother was informed that Malagüenian Comares (sun-dried raisin) wine, was excellent. It was nearly Christmas, I didn't yet drive, (my mother was an atrocious driver), I persuaded that our gardener should take us there. We arrived on a local holiday. There was not a soul in sight. Every door was closed and windows were tightly-shuttered. Parking at the bottom of this tiny, windswept village - which perched on a soaring peak - we wandered up some sharply inclining streets (seemingly created for goat and donkey traffic only), seeking some sort of a commerical sign. Everything meandered on a sharp 90º incline. Noticing my mother's increasing impatience, Francisco paused and knocked gently at one of those ubiquitously closed doors. Soft treadfalls came to the door...but no-one opened it. Francisco knocked again. We heard stiffled breathing within. After a long pause, a broken voice echoed hesitently,"¿Quien va?" ("Who's there?")
Francisco replied, "Gente de paz," ("Peaceful people,")
TOP There was a further delay. The door opened the tiniest crack. The woman scrutinized us circumspectly. She was wrapped in many layers of clothes, obviously cold. Perceiving our aspect resembled, a sort of family, she relaxed and opened the door. Francisco informed her of our quest. Unexpectedly she stepped into the street and hollered at the above flat.
"Juan, Juan abre." ("Juan, Juan open up.") As if on cue - nearly every persiana rolled-up. People peered at the commotion. A hosepipe was flung out the above window. It unfurled the exact distance of the parked car. Francisco raced down, (he had had the foresight to warn us, to purchase and bring two 5 litre caskets),"¿Que vino quiere?" ("Which wine would you like?") We yelled up our choice. Without warning, fluid gurgled and swelled the hosepipe. The caskets overflowed. Juan grumpily descended. We paid him less than a 1,000pts, having never even tasted the purchases. Driving home, I asked, 'why' such a specific introduction. "Stra Ana, we could have been contrabandistas or the Guardia Civil coming to arrest a family member," he paused hesitantly, "Without that particular introduction - they wouldn't have opened the door." It was November of 1975. Franco was critically ill, days earlier he had appointed King Juan Carlos as his heir designate. (Within a month, Franco's assigned Prime Minister, Carrero Blanco, would be blown sky-high in a terroist attack.) Were the Guardia Civil so terrifying - or oppressive? Those smugglers...? TOP |